Giving Thanks without the Gobble
More and more, turkey isn't the centerpiece of the Thanksgiving table.
By Hailey Zeller
CORRESPONDENT
Every November, grocery stores fill with rows and rows of turkeys, stacked like monuments to American tradition. The turkey has been the star of Thanksgiving, symbolizing gratitude, family, and patriotism.
Yet inside many Fredericksburg kitchens, that tradition is quietly fading—because for a growing number of people, Thanksgiving dinner no longer includes turkey.
Maybe that’s fitting, because the turkey’s place in Thanksgiving history is more legend than fact. The first feast between the Wampanoag and Pilgrims featured venison and seafood, not turkey. The bird only became iconic centuries later, when writers and politicians needed a unifying national image.
So maybe it makes sense that Fredericksburg, a city shaped by reinvention, is rethinking what Thanksgiving looks like.
“I focus a ton on the sides because I believe turkey is just one of many offerings on the table,” said Joy Crump, executive chef and co-owner of FOODE, and Councilor-elect for Fredericksburg’s Ward 2.
Crump’s holiday table features roasted garlic mashed potatoes, braised collards, and vegan Virginia apple pie. “I want to offer my vegan and vegetarian guests ample choices that still feel festive and reflective of the holiday,” she said.
That’s the heart of Thanksgiving—making sure everyone has a place, and something to eat, at the table. Whether it’s about honoring cultural roots, accommodating dietary choices, or just trying something new, the meal becomes a reflection of the people gathered around it.
That spirit shines here. Ask ten Fredericksburg locals what’s on their Thanksgiving plate, and you’ll get ten different answers.
You may find some tables have beef pot roast as the centerpiece, because, as one local puts it, “no one in our family enjoys turkey.” Others turn to comfort food like baked mac and cheese that’s been a favorite since childhood, or a rich pasta dish tossed with olives and herbs for flavor. The reasons vary from taste, tradition, or simply the joy of doing something different.
For Anita Crossfield, owner of Anita’s Cafe in downtown Fredericksburg, Thanksgiving takes on an Albanian and Turkish twist. She and her family serve börek—a flaky pastry filled with cheese or spinach—and qebapa (or Ćevapi)—small grilled sausages made from beef and lamb. They finish the meal with Çaj (Turkish tea) and Turkish coffee. Sharing these dishes with her guests goes beyond the meal into a symbol of hospitality, patience, and conversation.
From cultural traditions to plant-based spreads and comfort food, the holiday table looks less like a menu and more like a map of the people who call this place home.
Thanksgiving has never been about what’s on your plate, but about the gathering, the gratitude, and the laughter that lingers after the dishes are done. No matter how different our tables look, they all tell a story of community, culture, and choosing connection over convention.
In the end, it’s not about carving the turkey, but carving out a moment to be together.
Sources:
https://www.womenshistory.org/articles/thanksgiving-holiday-one-womans-crusade
https://www.nps.gov/liho/learn/historyculture/lincoln-and-thanksgiving.htm
https://www.themediterraneandish.com/turkish-borek-spinach-and-cheese-pie/
https://turkeytravelplanner.com/details/Food/TurkishCoffee.html
https://travelatelier.com/blog/all-about-turkish-tea-types-how-drink-health-benefits/
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